haha, sorry i have nothing to post this day, need help!

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Yogyakarta have many interesting place to be visit. For you who like past inheritence, there are many buddhist temple. The biggest temple is Borobudur temple. For you who like to go to beach, there are many good beach. Let we see the vacation place and interesting place in Yogyakarta deeper. For a moment let we explore about temple in Yogyakarta.Candi Borobudur (Borobudur Temple)
It’s located about 50 km north west of Yogyakarta and one of remarkable monument in Indonesia, a splendid work of art and the largest budhhist temple in the world. If you come and visit. Below is the photo taken when I went to Borobudur temple

Candi Sewu (Sewu Temple)
It hase about one thousand of temple located in one place. Based on people story, it was made by man who would engage beautiful lady, but the lady asked the man to build one thousand temple before morning. So the man build this one thousand temple in one night. Well whether you believe or not, this place is interesting place to visit

Candi Sari (Sari Temple)
Another candi located 13 km from Yogyakarta. Almost same with the others, this temple is budhist temple.

Well, actually at least there are five famous temple located around Yogyakarta. Those temple is place that we should be visit when we go to Yogyakarta. For next, we will take a look another interesting place in Yogyakarta for Vacation.

by : wulan indah

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1. plastic bag zip lock back

plastic bag are very useful in any situation and condition, they can carry many things such as dirty clothes, meals, trash *some country didn’t have proper trash can so we couldn’t throw our trash anywhere*

2. mobile charger

while traveling, i bet that you carry many electronic gadget such as notebook, cellphone, digital camera and etc so that important to you to carry mobile charger and adaptor charger for a car to plug your gadget on the car when you’re moving with your car.

3. hand sanitizer

beware of local desease when you’re traveling, washing hand are good option, but when there is no water arround, hand sanitizer are a good choice.

4. wallet

this little wallet are useful to carry your coin

5. sarong

this sarong are made in indonesia and well known for prays, sarong are very useful clothing product that had many use, you can use it as a blanket, as carpet, and as a cloth in urgent condition.

enjoy your travel

regards

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Whilst steeped in rich tradition and history, Yogyakarta, lovingly known as Yogya, continues to remain young. This is university town, where students from all over Indonesia from different ethnic backgrounds flock to pursue knowledge and wisdom. For this reason, Yogya is both very Javanese and at the same time a melting pot of different Indonesian cultures.

Yogyakarta (or Jogjakarta) is known as Neverending Asia for its endless attractions and appeal. As one of Indonesia’s 32 provinces, this city is one of the foremost cultural centers of Indonesia. From climbing the magnificent Borobudur temple to watching silversmiths produce amazing jewelry to shopping up a storm at Malioboro road, you’ll never be bored in this small yet bustling city.

Yogya is a city of history. In the 18th. and 19th centuries, it was the seat of the re-emerged Mataram kingdom. Today many of the Mataram traditions live on and are a part of the city’s daily life. Yogya is a place to come to connect with the centuries’ old traditions, culture and the history of Java as well as bask in the friendliness of the local people. It is a place with a unique charm which seldom fails to captivate visitors.

From natural wonders, local art and traditions, examples of Javanese heritage to delicious culinary delights, Yogya is a city with numerous attractions. This is why Yogya is the second most visited destination in Indonesia after Bali.

Overshadowed in the north by the smoldering Mt Merapi volcano and bordered to the south by the pounding Indian Ocean, the graceful old city of Yogya has a mild climate making it easy for visitors to plan activities without worrying about intense heat. The beautiful green landscape of this central part of Java makes merely traveling from one destination to another an experience.

In addition, there are about 70,000 handicraft industries based in Yogya and other facilities like various accommodations and transportations, numerous food services, travel agents, and proper tourism support, and also tour a security team support called the Tourism Police, locally known as Bhayangkara Wisata.

The people of Yogyakarta are known for their hospitality and good manners. If you show proper respect, you will be welcome in any part of the city.

While it’s a bustling cultural hub, Yogya is also slower paced and more relaxed than other cities in Indonesia. Many locals consider Yogya the perfect place to retire because of its air of serenity, tolerance and harmony. There is a reason why people say that time moves slower in Yogya.

Yogya is the center of Javanese arts from the refined court dances to modern arts in painting and performing art.

Yogya is famous as a centre of traditional textile production, particularly batik. The distinctive batik of Yogya uses the basic colors of brown, indigo and white with in geometric designs. Many young artists of Yogya have also embraced the modern art of batik-painting.

Yogya is also known for its leather and wooden puppets crafts used for traditional shadow-puppet performances, as well as wooden puppet performances (wayang golek) that are used to act out ancient epics which contain popular but deep philosophical thoughts and teachings.

sources : indonesia.travel

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Excursions: Sarchu, Rohtang Pass, Keylong, Baralacha Pass, Pang, Tanglang La Pass, Pangong Lake, Thiksey, Shey, Khardungla Top, Nubra, Kargil, Srinagar

Day 01: Manali to Sarchu: Today you start your journey to Leh stopping at sarchu for the night after crossing rohtang pass,keylong and baralacha pass. Sarchu is situated at the border of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu & Kashmir. Upon arrival in Sarchu you check in at our tented campsite for overnight stay.Day 02: Sarchu / Leh: Today morning you leave for Leh by early morning through nakeela and lachangla pass. Lunch at pang. After lunch drive to Leh passing through skyangchu thang (biggest and highest plateau on earth on stretch of 42 kms), tanglang la pass and Indus valley. Upon arrival meet our representative at the hotel. Overnight at hotel in Leh.

Day 03: Leh to Pangong Lake: After an early breakfast you leave for Pangong Lake through the changla pass at 5486 mtrs.Pangong lake, situated at 14,000 feet (4,267 m) is a long narrow basin of inland drainage, hardly six to seven kilometer at its widest point and over 130km in length. it is bisected by the international border between India and China. Enjoy the landscape in the backdrop of the lake. One rarely feels so close to nature and environment and the scenery is unforgettable. Evening at leisure and overnight stay at the camp near lake.

Day 04: Pangong Lake to Leh: This morning at leisure to explore the beauty of lake and later you drive back to Leh enroute visiting Thiksey an impressive complex rising tier upon tier on a hill above the village & shey, the ancient capital of Ladakh. Drive further to reach Leh. Overnight at hotel in Leh.

Day 05: Leh to Nubra Valley: Today after an early breakfast you drive to nubra valley crossing khardung-la-pass – the highest motorable road in the world at 18,380 ft. nubra valley is popularly known as ldorma or the valley of flowers. it is situated to the north of Ladakh between the karakoram and ladakh ranges of the himalayas. Check in at the resort and later visit the samstaling monastery and panamik hot springs. Enjoy your evening at the campsite.

Day 06: Nubra Valley / Leh: Today after your breakfast at the camp, visit the diskit monastery and the sand dunes to enjoy a camel safari (optional). Later we drive to leh over khardung la. Afternoon rest and relax or take a walk to the local market. Overnight at hotel in Leh.

Day 07: Leh / Kargil (235 Km): After an early breakfast you drive towards Srinagar, via Kargil. Upon arrival in Kargil we check in at our hotel for overnight stay.

Day 08: Kargil / Srinagar (250 Km.): Post breakfast you drive towards Srinagar via Sonmarg. Tour concludes. Travinfoindia thank you for your patronage and ensure a punctual transfer to Domestic Airport to catch the flight for your onward Destination.

PACKAGE COST (PER PERSON IN INR)

HOTELS INCORPORATED

Package includes

• Assistance upon arrival at Leh airport by Travinfoindia representative.
• Non-alcoholic welcome drink on arrival.
• Accommodation on twin sharing basis in standard room, at specified category of hotel.
• All meals (bed tea, breakfast, hot / pack lunch, evening tea & dinner).
• Return airport and round trip transfers along with all sightseeing tours by non-ac vehicle as per the program.
• Inner line permit to restricted / protected areas (pangong lake, tsomoriri & nubra valley).
• Monument & museum entrance fees.
• Currently applicable taxes and service charges.
• Any future taxes levies will be charged extra.

Package does not include

• Airfare to and from Leh.
• Any kind of personal expenses or optional tours / extra meals ordered.
• Tips, insurance, laundry, phone calls.
• The service of vehicle is not included on leisure days & after finishing the sightseeing tour as per the itinerary.
• Any kind of drinks (alcoholic, mineral, aerated).
• Guide fee, camera fee, soft or hard drinks, starters.
• Anything not specifically mentioned under the head “package includes”.

Please read the Package terms and conditions listed at the end of the document.

*Optional Activities:

River rafting @ Rs. 1000/- per person (Phey – Nimmu 2 hrs) Season from June – September
Camel Rides @ Rs. 500/- per person in Hunder Nubra for 01 hr
Cultural Show @ Rs. 5000/- per troupe for 1 hr
Professional Tourist Guide Rs. 1000/- Per Day

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Large Asian mammals are absents and replaced instead by large numbers of marsupials, lizards, cockatoos and parrots. The difference becomes more pronounced as one moves further east where dry seasons are more prolonged and the land is dry and bush-like, and so in many areas corn and sago are the staple food, instead of rice.
At first Islam time come to these islands in the 16th century, four Hindu Kingdoms co-existed in apparent peace what is now called West Nusa Tenggara and is still the religion embraced by those in the west of Lombok, which are primarily Balinese. Lombok experienced strong Balinese influences in the past, but has still retained a unique identifies.

The indigenous people of Lombok, the Sasaks, are predominantly Moslem and have a strong, distinguished tradition, as do the people of neighboring Sumbawa. Soft white sand, virgin beaches are typical in Lombok, where the motto is ‘You can see Bali in Lombok, but not Lombok in Bali’. Famous for its ‘tenun ikat’ hand-woven textiles, the island has exceptional charm and its relatively undiscovered, except for Senggigi City, which becoming a major resort area.

Regulars shuttle flights from Bali and Surabaya as well as ferries provide excellent transportation links within the islands of the province as well as with the rest of the country.

The two largest islands in West Nusa Tenggara province are Lombok in the west and the larger Sumbawa Island in the east. Mataram, on Lombok, is the capital and largest city of the province. The province is administratively divided into six regencies and one municipality, Mataram. The Sasak ethnic group mainly inhabits Lombok, with a minority Balinese population then, Sumbawa and Bima ethnic groups inhabit Sumbawa. Each of these groups has a local language associated with it as well. The population of the province is 3.821.134; 71 percent of the population lives in Lombok.

Geographically
Geographically, West Nusa Tenggara Province is located 115′45 – 119°10 east Longitudes 8°5 – 9°5 south latitudes. Its area boundaries is:
North Side: Java Sea
South side: Hindia Ocean
East side: Sepadan Strait
West side: Lombok Strai

Wide Area
The wide area of West Nusa Tenggara is 49.32,19 Km2 that contains of 20.153,07 Km2 land and 29.159,04 Km2 of sea. The two big islands is Lombok Island with its wide area about 4.738,70 Km2 (23,51%) and Sumbawa Island with 15.414,37 Km’ (76,49%) wide area. Beside that, it also surrounded by thousands small islands, such as Gili Air, Gili Meno, Gili Trawangan, Gili Gede, Gili Nanggu, Gili Tangkong, Moyo Island, Bungin Island, Satonda Island, Kaung Island, and Panjang Island.

Government Administrative
Administratively, the capital of West Nusa Tenggara is Mataram city and contains of 7 regencies and 2 cities. The four regencies/cities are located in Lombok Island and 5 regencies/cities state in Sumbawa Island.

source : indonesia tourism

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Where it is near:

This waterfall is close to Lake Tamblingan in the highlands.

Directions:

From Kuta follow the same route as for Mekasari, heading towards Singaraja. After you pass Lake Bratan, take the sharp left turn around to the right passing Lake Buyan and Lake Tamblingan. There is a solitary road sign indicating the location of the waterfall. You should pass the Ngiring- Ngewedang restaurant on your right and the waterfall is 1km further also on the right. If you come to the Lumbung Bali Cottage you’ve gone too far.

How far from Kuta:
2.5 hours

Where is the nearest food:
Ngiring- Ngewedang restaurant 1km east.

How far is the waterfall from the road:
not more than 20 minutes walk

What route might you visit this waterfall on:
Anyone staying in Munduk, or in Lovina, wanting some adventure might try this one.

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Staying Sharp
The ability of a knife to maintain a sharp edge after extensive use is a very valuable characteristic. I grit my teeth when I read or hear “Don’t make the steel too hard because then it will be difficult to sharpen.” What nonsense! Yes, there is a tradeoff between edge holding ability (hardness) and toughness but once you use a knife which stays sharp you will never want to use anything else.”

There are two principal mechanisms which cause a knife to become dull, mechanical abrasion and chemical etching. Mechanical abrasion is the main dulling mechanism in carving dry wood. Both mechanical abrasion and chemical etching are important in meat cutting and shaving. Stainless steel razor blades last longer than the old plain carbon steel ones because they are more resistant to attack by the chemicals in the shaving cream.

Edge holding is also intimately connected with the hardness of the blade. Hardness, defined as resistance to penetration, is a measurable quantity. One qualitative measure of hardness is the Rockwell C scale, based on an instrument which presses a diamond stylus with a specific force into the material being tested. The size of the indentation indicates the hardness. Cheap knives and most stainless steel knives have a hardness value of RC 56 to 58. better knives, such as the laminated Swedish Mora blades have a hardness of Rc 58 to 60. Many Japanese woodworking tools have edges with hardness of RC 62 to 64. The difference between edge holding properties of Rc 56 and Rc 62 is ENORMOUS. I try to temper blades to Rc 62. Yes, the steel is more brittle than if it were softer but remember this is a knife, not a pry bar. One consequence of increased edge hardness is that it takes longer to sharpen. With blades of very hard steel you should avoid using ‘Crock Stick’ or other cylindrical sharpening devices. Excessive pressure on a cylindrical sharpening stone with break out a series of little tiny chips from the cutting edge. Use flat whetstones instead.

Raw Materials
Most of my experience has been with plain carbon steel, type 1095, .05 inch thick. The reasons for using 1095, in no particular order, are:
a. That’s what I have available from making Bowscraper blades.
b. It is relatively inexpensive.
c. It is easy to heat treat.
d. It has excellent edge holding properties for wood carving.

1095 can be obtained from Precision Steel Warehouse (http://www.precisionsteel.com) (1-800-323-0740) or Admiral Steel (http://www.admiralsteel.com). Worn out files are another source of high carbon steel similar to 1095. 1095 steel consists predominantly of iron atoms with approximately 0.95 % carbon by weight. Since carbon atoms are lighter than iron atoms (ratio 12/56) 4.5 % of the atoms are carbon and 95.5 % are iron. Another way of looking at it: Every 23′d atom is carbon. An additional small amount of manganese is added to make the steel easier to harden.

Another type of steel, readily available in old saw blades, is L6. Look for an old crosscut saw (misery whip) or Sawzall blades. This is a high carbon steel with some nickel added. The heat treatment procedure for L6 is similar to that for 1095. L6 is slightly less hard and more tough than 1095 for a given heat treating cycle.

One can also buy knife steel from mail order houses that specialize in knife making supplies.
The shade tree knife mechanic should avoid using high-speed steel saw blades or fancy alloys for knife construction. The procedure for heat treating high-speed steel and higher alloy knife steels is much more complicated, involving very high temperatures, exact temperature control and reducing atmospheres to protect the blade from oxidation. That isn’t shade tree any more.

Blade design
The knives I make have fairly short blades. This is because of the experience I had with a laminated Mora knife with a 3 3/4 inch blade, a gift from my late mother in law. It had excellent edge holding properties but the parts of the blade that needed sharpening most frequently were the first 2 inches of the blade and the tip. The middle part of the blade never got dull. From this I concluded that I rarely used the middle portion of the blade so why not eliminate it? Make the blade no more than 3 inches long. I use a tapered tang that fits snugly into a slot in the handle.

Cutting out the blade
Wear safety glasses dammit! It seems to work best when I make the handle first. This is particularly important when making one-of-a- kind handles from antler. After finishing the handle, including the slot for the tang I make a cardboard template of the proposed blade shape to see how it looks in the handle. Next I use an indelible marking pen to transfer the blade shape to the steel. A vice to hold the steel and a hand-held hacksaw can be used to cut out the blade if the steel is in the soft annealed state. Now I use the power jigsaw with a high speed blade to cut the blade to shape. I use the highest speed setting on the saw and stop frequently to lubricate the blade with paraffin wax to keep it from overheating. Some touch-up work with a fine file is always needed to make the back of the blade nice and smooth.

When you are deciding on the blade thickness you are going to use remember that the amount of metal that must be removed is proportional to the length of the blade times the square of the thickness. If you want a blade that is twice as thick then you have to create a pile of metal filings which is 4 times bigger. This why I like making small knives.

Another technique is used for cutting up old annealed crosscut saw blades. ‘Hot sawing’ involves using a dull power jigsaw blade, no lubricant, high speed and lots of pressure. Do it at your own risk! After everything heats up and the sparks fly it will cut very quickly but not give a super smooth edge. The freshly cut edge of the blade will actually be hardened by the transient heating that accompanies the cutting. Hard steel is the sort of thing that ruins files. Consequently you will need to remove the thin hardened layer with a grinder before you do any filing.

Setup for filing the bevel
Ergonomics! If you had infinite patience and dexterity you could hold the knife blank in one hand and the file in the other while you shaped the blade. That would probably be the last knife you ever made. Good ergonomics requires clamping the knife blank at waist height so that you can apply your body weight and muscle power to the file in order to make the bevel quickly, accurately and neatly. Use both hands and apply a very great pressure to the file. I also don’t like getting steel filings all over my workbench. Consequently I fasten a 2by4 to the workbench which extends out about 12 inches. I then clamp the knife blade to the 2by4 and the filings fall onto the floor.

Filing the bevel
In order to get the job done as quickly as possible use three different files. Start with a very coarse file. Try to keep a constant bevel angle over the entire edge. An included angle of 30 degrees is adequate. How do you tell 30 degrees from a handsaw? Easy. That is a 15 degree bevel on each side of the edge. A 15 degree bevel means the length of the bevel is approximately twice the thickness of the blade. over for and up 1. Do 90 % of the work with the very coarse file and finish with the medium and fine files. Keeping a constant bevel angle will pay dividends when it comes time to put a razor-sharp edge on the blade.

About steel and heat treating
This is a description of the way I heat treat 1095 carbon steel knife blades. My personal objective is to make a small knife with exceptional edge-holding properties instead of something that can be used as a crowbar. Consequently the steel near the edge is kept in a very hard state.

Light Weight Theory:
Iron atoms have a simple crystal structure. When you add carbon atoms to an iron crystal lattice the equilibrium position for the carbon atoms is in big holes in the lattice. When the carbon atoms are in the big holes, the annealed state, the properties of the iron + carbon alloy (commonly called steel) is only slightly different from the properties with no carbon. You hardly know the carbon atoms are there at all. The magic happens when you heat the steel lattice above a critical temperature (medium red heat or about 1475 degrees Fahrenheit) and then cool it quickly. Then the carbon atoms get stuck in places where they normally wouldn’t fit, a non-equilibrium condition. The crystal lattice expands slightly because the carbon atoms have pushed the iron atoms farther apart and becomes very, very much harder. The tensile strength and hardness are vastly increased.

The down side of all this is that the steel becomes very brittle. A major for this reason is thermal stress. Unless every part of the steel goes through the exact same cooling cycle there will be parts of the steel where most of the carbon atoms are pushing the iron atoms apart and regions where a smaller fraction of the carbon atoms are distorting the iron lattice. This sets up severe mechanical stress in the steel which may cause it to spontaneously crack.

As quenched the steel is probably harder and more brittle than you want. The hardened steel can be made less brittle and thermal stress relieved, tempered, by heating it to a specific temperature for a specific amount of time. Tempering is always a compromise between hardness and stress relief.

Remember, no carbon = no hardening. You can’t heat treat a nail.

Heat sources
I have used three different heat sources. The first was my Weber barbecue + charcoal briquettes. I did it in the late afternoon so I could see the medium red hot color in the steel. Light up a medium size pile of briquettes, fan them to get them glowing and plunge the steel into the mass. When the steel is medium red quench it. The advantages of the Weber are that you can do large pieces, there is very little danger of overheating the blade and it provides a reducing atmosphere so there is little chance of de-carburizing the blade.

The next furnace I made, good only for small things like carving knives, was a muffle furnace heated by my Bernzomatic torch. Poke a hole in the bottom of a tin can which will accommodate the broad Bernzomatic burner head. Fill the tin can with damp dirt and then jam a 1 inch by 2 inch stick into it to provide the furnace cavity. Pull the stick out and let the dirt dry. Light the torch and play the flame through the hole. Wait until your furnace gets hot before you put in the blade. Simple but effective.

For the two abovementioned methods do the heating in a dimly lit location so you can tell when the blade has a medium red glow. This is a fairly good indication that the correct temperature has been reached.

I also have an electric furnace with a thermocouple thermometer. This gives much better control than the other two methods but may not be as readily available.

Heat treating a blade
The blade should have as smooth a finish as you want at this stage. Remember, once it is hardened you won’t be able to shape it with a file. All you’ll do is ruin the file.

Have some way of holding the blade which will allow it to go from the furnace to the quenching oil. On some knives I wrap a piece of heavy wire around the tang and use that as a handle. Otherwise I use a pair of farrier’s tongs. Make sure your heat source is big enough so that the entire blade is uniformly heated to the same medium red color.
a. Bring the entire blade to medium red heat (1475 deg. F). Don’t leave it in the furnace any longer than necessary and to prevent grain growth don’t get the steel hotter than necessary .
b. Plunge the blade edge first into the quenching bath. Keep the blade vertical. If one side of the blade cools faster than the other then the blade will warp. I use a quart of 30 weight motor oil poured into an old bread pan. Motor oil is cheap but it stinks. David Boye’s book says he used olive oil at one time. Water quenches the blade more quickly than oil and gives a greater risk of warping or cracking.

Were you successful? If you didn’t get the steel hot enough before quenching it will not be hardened. Try to scratch the blade with a file. If you can scratch it then the blade didn’t get hot enough. Sometimes the thermal stress created by quenching is so severe that the blade will spontaneously crack. Consequently the next step, tempering, should be done very soon after the blade has been quenched and hardened.

c. Temper the blade to get the desired hardness: in a kitchen oven at 400 deg F for about 20 minutes. The goal is Rockwell C-62.
Warning: If you put the knife blade in your wife’s oven without thoroughly washing the 30 weight motor oil off you will be in BIG trouble.

Many books give a slightly different recipe for tempering carbon steel. The procedure they follow to temper a quenched and hardened blade is:
1. Polish the hardened blade with emery cloth so you see shiny metal.
2. Heat the blade slowly until you see a colored oxide form on the surface of the blade. When the color is just right plunge the blade into water. (light straw color for a knife to deep blue for a screw driver.) That’s the way it was done by the village blacksmith. Welcome to the 20′th century. I don’t think oxide colors are as accurate as a thermostatically controlled kitchen oven.

Differential Tempering
A differentially tempered blade has a cutting edge which is harder than the remainder of the blade. This is something I didn’t do in the earliest knives I made. I do it now because it looks good but I don’t know if the knife is stronger because of it. If you don’t want differential tempering then skip steps c. and d.

c. Polish the blade with emery cloth so it looks like shiny metal. This is so you can see the oxide colors form on the back as you heat it up the draw some of the temper on the back of the blade.
d. Draw more temper from the back of the blade: Hold the blade in a clamp with the cutting edge in contact with a damp pad of paper towel or rag. With a Bernzomatic torch set to put out a pencil flame, play the torch on the back of the blade until a blue oxide layer forms. Ideally you should have the entire blade blue except for the edge.

This is easy to screw up. If you don’t do a good job of keeping the blade edge cool with the damp rag and the blue oxide forms on the cutting edge then there will be a soft spot which will not stay sharp. Practice your heat treating and tempering techniques on scraps until you are confident. Buena suerte.

Japanese swords are hardened and differentially tempered in one process. The un-tempered blade is coated with clay except for the cutting edge. The sword is then heated red hot and plunged into water. The clay layer slows down the cooling rate on the body of the sword and prevents it from becoming fully hard. The cutting edge, exposed directly to the water, cools very quickly and becomes very hard. I think this would take a lot of skill.

Un-heat treatment
What if you are starting with old cross cut saw blades or files which are already hard? Do yourself a favor and anneal the steel before trying to shape it. Heat it up to red heat and let it cool very slowly (hours).

The handle
There are several options for handle materials and ways of fastening the blade to the handle. I will describe what I have been doing lately. If you want other options then consult David Boye’s book. I have been making handles from osage orange, yew, iron bark eucalyptus, and manzanita wood but my favorite material is reindeer antler.

Shrinkage is the biggest danger with wooden handles. If you epoxy the blade into a piece of wood with some residual moisture then the wood is liable to crack as moisture evaporates and the wood shrinks. The way to avoid this is to thoroughly dry the wood handle before mounting the blade. Leave the handle in your car for a week or so during the summer or put it in the oven set at the lowest possible temperature (150 degrees) for a few hours.

Antler seems to be dimensionally stable and not need this sort of treatment.

The blades I make have a V shaped tang which fits into a slot in the handle. In order to make the slot I first drill a 3/16 inch hole in the handle the length of the tang. Next I form the slot with my ‘float’. This tool cuts a slot which is exactly the width of the tang. It is best to clamp the handle in a vice so that both hand can hold the tool for power and control.

Once the slot has been cut then you can shape the handle. I cut the slot before shaping the handle because if you accidentally get the slot off center you can shape the handle to bring it back to the center. It is also easier to hold the wood in a vice if it has parallel sides. If you shape the handle first and then cut the slot it will look bad if it isn’t exactly in the middle.

I attach the blade to the handle with 30 minute epoxy.

Knives which were made using these techniques can be viewed in the PrimitiveWays Trading Post.

Tool Set
All of the operations in knife making can be done with hand tools but I am the impatient type. The power tools I use are a Bosch power jigsaw and a 1950 vintage Shopsmith which I inherited from my Dad. I use the jigsaw for cutting out the blade from annealed 1095 stock and cutting out the hardwood for the handle. The Shopsmith is set up as a horizontal drill press for drilling the hole in the handle. This insures that the hole is parallel to the sides of the handle. If you have either a good eye or low standards you can use a vice and a hand-held drill. I also use the Shopsmith’s disk sander attachment for shaping the blades and handles.

Beveling the edge can either be done with a set of files or with a grinder. ‘Real’ knife makers use a specially constructed dual belt sander for this job. A special hand tool is used for making the slot in the handle which receives the tang of the blade. I think the traditional name for this tool is a ‘float’. The float consists of a short section of saw blade mounted in a wooden handle. The thickness of the saw blade is selected to form a slot the same thickness as the knife tang. The tip of the float is ground narrow so it fits in the hole. The float is mounted so it cuts on the pull stroke. One can also make the float from the same material the blade is made from.

The following table may seem obvious but it lists various materials and the tools which can be used to shape the

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*** David Boye’s book, “Step-by-Step Knifemaking”, ISBN O-87857-181-7 is an excellent reference.

E-mail your comments to “Richard A. Baugh” at richardbaugh@comcast.net

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The process of making a sword is more than what you see in the movies. For many people being a blacksmith is a fantasy where you pound steel against an anvil, dip it in water and voila! You have a completed sword ready to mow down the evil hordes of creatures that lurk in the forest. But swordmaking is much more than this. Swordmaking is both an art and a craft and it takes hard work, a lot of practice and a significant amount of specialized tools to create a sword. It also takes many years of practice to become proficient at this skill.

Before the blacksmith or swordsmith actually starts hammering or heating the metal for a sword there is a lot of work to be done. The sword size, shape, properties, and metal composition all have to be decided upon. These factors determine the amount of metal, the temperatures of heating and the specific steps in the process that have to be completed. This article doesn’t cover the complete art of swordmaking. It will only discuss and outline the process of smithing the blade of a sword.

There are many different methods for making a sword and the art has changed over the centuries as technologies, tools and the science of metallurgy has changed. But for the past five hundred years there has been one method that still stands as the most common. This is the six step method. of taking a bar of the desired metal to a completed sword.

The First step is Forging

A bar of the desired metal or combination of metals is heated in a forge and then it is hammered into shape.(The shape of a sword) This hammering process can take a long time and it is called drawing out the sword. The sword is worked on in sections (usually around 6 inches in length) and repeatedly hammered and heated until it comes into the desired shape .This process is repeated many times and the sword is often heated then allowed to cool without hammering. This is required by the metal to keep the desired properties of strength and flexibility. Once this step is completed the sword is in the proper shape but the properties of the metal make it very brittle and something has to be done to give flexibility to it.

Step Two: Annealing
Annealing softens the sword and makes it easy to grind into shape. The sword is now heated and then allowed to cool very slowly. Often it is wrapped in an insulating material to slow down this cooling. It can take as long as 24 hours and this annealing process makes the sword soft and easy to grind.

Step Three: Grinding

Now the blacksmith uses a grinder to work out the edge and point of the sword. This would also be when any engraving is added. This is not a completed sword yet. It is still much too soft so it must be hardened.

Step Four: Hardening

Now the sword is heated to a very high temperature and then placed into a quenching tank. (This is what we always see in the movies). This quenching allows it to cool quickly and evenly which will harden the metal. After this hardening the sword is brittle and something must be done to make it strong yet flexible.

Step Five: Tempering

Again the blade is heated and quenched. But now the heating is at a much lower temperature than was used at the hardening. This heating/quenching cycle may be repeated several times. This tempering allows the blade to be strong but not brittle. This is one stage where the skill and experience of the swordsmith is invaluable. It takes a trained hand and eye to understand the properties of the meta. It will have a certain amount of flexibility yet still retain its sharp edge. Now the sword is ready for completion.

Step Six: Completion

The sword blade itself is now complete. Now the additional parts will be added such as the pommel the guard and the hilt.

For the past five hundred years the only way to learn the art of swordmaking was to find a skilled blacksmith or swordsmith that was willing to take you on as an apprentice. Because of the specialized skills and tools, and the skill that is required this tradition remains the best way to do it today.

Before you invest lots of time in money in equipment and materials you should find a master that is willing to teach you the basics of the art. You won’t have to devote your life to endless hours of hammering against an anvil and with a little perseverance, a little patience and some practice you will be able to make some decent swords that you can be proud of.

sources : ezinearticles.com

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In a stroke of uncanny luck, Hiccup downs a flying dragon in the heat of battle, and his compassion meant to set the dragon free, rather than trying to prove himself to be a worthy viking man by killing it. And it’s a rare specimen of a dragon too, which would have brought him instant glory. So a bond between man and mythical beast gets struck, and christened as Toothless, this is one pest who slowly grows into a pet, with Hiccup’s secret rendezvous resulting in growing appreciation for the species, despite what the knowledge that his kinsman had compiled into a Dragon compendium which details facts all ending with an advisory on compulsory annihilation.

The story here is the strength of the film, being witty, smart but never condescending nor insulting the intelligence of the audience. While most characters are caricatures, especially Hiccup’s peers, a lot of effort have been put into creating the leads as multi-dimensional and full of heart, and I enjoyed how the characters are so open to their emotions, that it becomes a lot more real than the photo realistic 3D animation and effects. Sure there’s the usual father-son misunderstanding and expectations, and how a zero turns to hero, or even the theme of fearing something that we don’t fully comprehend, but it’s the manner in which the usual got delivered, that made all the difference. Especially so for its anti-war stance, that all it takes is a little step back from the common battle-cry, and instead seek to be understood, by holding out an olive branch, and to understand first.

For those who enjoy the mythology of the dragon creature, there are a number of ideas thrown up in the film that would make you nod in appreciation how these got conjured up for the film, and they worked wonders, even though they may be a tad predictable plot wise. And I’m betting that a lot of folks out there will take to Toothless, thanks to its “stitch”-ish design similar to Lilo and Stitch (since it’s co-director Chris Sander’s previous work) and huge saucer like eyes, plus a lovable demeanour built into the character that’s always apprehensive, and mischievous. Being the creature that has no track record also helped, since it ropes you into a journey of friendship, bonding and discovery with Hiccup as to how powerful his new found friend can be, not to mention how symbiotic their relationship will evolve into as well.

Action junkies will find the action sequences in the film faultless, and the 3D got specifically crafted for certain set action pieces that really had me ducking for cover, for once. Fights are incredible, and always accompanied either by humour that worked without the feeling that it was deliberate nor just tried too hard, coupled with the comedic voice talents such as Jonah Hill and Christopher Mintz-Plasse.

How to Train Your Dragon is similar to last year’s Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs – Long titles, great story, beautiful animation and a total delight. Highly recommended, and it goes into my list as contenders for best films of this year!

sources : imdb

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